Nestled at the head of Passage Canal on the western edge of Prince William Sound, Whittier, Alaska, is a town unlike any other. Accessible primarily through the unique Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel – North America’s longest combined vehicle and railroad tunnel – Whittier offers an unparalleled blend of dramatic natural beauty, intriguing history, and an idiosyncratic community spirit. Often referred to as “the town under one roof,” Whittier’s striking landscape of towering mountains, pristine glaciers, and an abundance of wildlife makes it a must-visit destination for those seeking adventure, solitude, and a truly Alaskan experience. This guide delves into the myriad activities and sights that make Whittier a remarkable travel destination, promising an insightful and engaging journey into its unique charm.
Unveiling Whittier’s Unique Charms and History
Whittier’s allure extends beyond its natural splendor, drawing visitors into a rich narrative woven from its strategic military past and its innovative community structure. Exploring these foundational elements provides a deeper appreciation for this isolated yet vibrant town.
The Gateway to Prince William Sound
Whittier’s strategic location made it a crucial military outpost during World War II, serving as a deep-water, ice-free port. Today, it continues its legacy as a vital access point, but for a different kind of expedition: tourism. It’s the primary gateway for exploring the majestic Prince William Sound, a vast expanse of water dotted with countless islands, fjords, and tidewater glaciers. From Whittier’s bustling harbor, visitors embark on a variety of adventures, from multi-day kayaking trips to scenic glacier cruises. The journey to Whittier itself is an experience, passing through the historic tunnel, a marvel of engineering that only allows one-way traffic at specific times, creating a sense of anticipation and exclusivity. This controlled access contributes to Whittier’s unique, almost secluded, atmosphere.
A Town Under One Roof: Begich Towers
Perhaps the most distinctive aspect of Whittier is its architectural curiosity: the Begich Towers. This imposing 14-story structure, a former army barracks, houses the vast majority of Whittier’s residents. Within its walls, you’ll find not only residential apartments but also the police station, post office, local grocery store, laundromat, health clinic, and even the Whittier School. Living in the Begich Towers offers a fascinating glimpse into a community that lives and thrives almost entirely under one roof, particularly during the long, snowy Alaskan winters. For visitors, observing this communal living arrangement from the outside is an intriguing part of the Whittier experience, highlighting the resilience and adaptability of its residents. It’s a testament to human ingenuity in adapting to a challenging environment, creating a tightly-knit community with an unusual urban footprint amidst a wilderness backdrop.
Traces of World War II
Whittier’s past as a secret military installation during the 1940s is palpable throughout the town. The most striking remnant of this era is the colossal, abandoned Buckner Building, an eerie concrete monolith that once housed thousands of soldiers. Though dilapidated and off-limits for entry, its sheer scale and imposing presence dominate the skyline and serve as a somber reminder of a bygone era. Visitors can walk around its perimeter, reflecting on the historical significance of the site. Other smaller bunkers and foundations scattered around the area further hint at Whittier’s strategic importance during World War II and the Cold War. These historical landmarks provide a compelling contrast to the vibrant natural landscape, adding layers of depth to the town’s identity. Understanding this history enriches the travel experience, allowing visitors to connect with the human stories that shaped this remarkable Alaskan outpost.
Embracing Adventure in Prince William Sound
The vast, wild expanse of Prince William Sound is Whittier’s ultimate playground, offering an array of adventures that connect visitors directly with Alaska’s breathtaking natural wonders. From the serene observation of majestic glaciers to thrilling encounters with marine wildlife, the sound promises unforgettable experiences.
Glacier & Wildlife Cruises
No trip to Whittier is complete without embarking on a glacier and wildlife cruise. These excursions navigate the calm, sheltered waters of Prince William Sound, offering unparalleled views of tidewater glaciers actively calving ice into the sea – a truly awe-inspiring spectacle. Popular destinations include the magnificent Portage Glacier and the serene Harriman Glacier, among many others within the numerous fjords. Beyond the icy giants, these cruises are also prime opportunities for wildlife spotting. Keep an eye out for humpback whales breaching, orcas patrolling, playful sea otters floating on their backs, harbor seals basking on ice floes, and numerous seabirds, including puffins and majestic bald eagles. Knowledgeable guides provide commentary on the area’s geology, ecology, and history, enhancing the journey with fascinating insights into this pristine ecosystem. The scale of the glaciers and the abundance of wildlife make these cruises an essential, immersive experience in Alaskan wilderness.
Kayaking and Paddleboarding
For those seeking a more intimate connection with the waters of Prince William Sound, kayaking and paddleboarding offer an unforgettable perspective. Outfitters in Whittier provide rentals and guided tours, allowing adventurers to glide silently through the emerald waters, exploring hidden coves and observing wildlife at water level. The calm, protected waters of Passage Canal and its adjacent bays are ideal for both beginners and experienced paddlers. Imagine paddling alongside a pod of playful sea otters or navigating silently towards a distant waterfall cascading down sheer rock faces. Multi-day expeditions are also possible for the more adventurous, offering the chance to camp on remote beaches and truly immerse oneself in the solitude and grandeur of the Alaskan wilderness. This self-propelled exploration offers a profound sense of peace and discovery, far from the hustle and bustle of daily life.
Fishing Expeditions
Prince William Sound is a renowned fishing paradise, attracting anglers from around the world. Whittier serves as an excellent base for various fishing expeditions. Charter boats depart daily from the marina, targeting a rich bounty of species. The waters are particularly famous for their abundant salmon runs (King, Sockeye, Coho, Pink, and Chum) during the summer months, offering thrilling sport fishing opportunities. Additionally, halibut fishing is immensely popular, with large, powerful fish providing an exhilarating challenge. Lingcod and various rockfish species also inhabit these waters. Whether you’re an experienced angler seeking a trophy catch or a novice looking to try your hand at Alaskan fishing, Whittier’s charters cater to all skill levels, providing equipment and expert guidance. There’s nothing quite like reeling in a fresh catch against the stunning backdrop of glaciers and mountains, making for a truly memorable culinary and recreational adventure.
Scenic Trails and Outdoor Exploration
Beyond the waters of Prince William Sound, Whittier’s surrounding landscape offers incredible opportunities for land-based exploration. Hiking trails lead to breathtaking viewpoints, while scenic spots provide perfect backdrops for photography and quiet contemplation.
Hiking Opportunities
Despite its small size, Whittier boasts access to several rewarding hiking trails that showcase its dramatic mountainous terrain and glacial landscapes. One of the most popular is the Portage Pass Trail. This moderately challenging trail begins just outside the tunnel entrance on the Whittier side and leads over a scenic pass, rewarding hikers with panoramic views of Portage Glacier and Portage Lake on the other side. The wildflowers in summer are spectacular, and the trail offers excellent opportunities for spotting wildlife like mountain goats. Another accessible option is the Horsetail Falls Trail, a shorter, easier walk that leads to a beautiful waterfall cascading down a cliff face near the town. These trails offer a chance to stretch your legs, breathe in the crisp Alaskan air, and immerse yourself in the natural grandeur surrounding Whittier, providing a different perspective than water-based activities.
The Whistle Stop Park and Marina
The heart of Whittier’s waterfront activity is its charming marina, home to various fishing and tour charters, private boats, and small local businesses. Adjacent to the marina is Whistle Stop Park, a pleasant area for strolling, picnicking, and simply enjoying the views. From the park, you can watch the boats come and go, observe eagles soaring overhead, and take in the magnificent scenery of Passage Canal framed by towering peaks. It’s an ideal spot for a leisurely afternoon, offering plenty of benches and open spaces to relax. The park also features historical markers, providing context to Whittier’s military past and the evolution of its port. It’s a great place to soak in the atmosphere of this unique town and appreciate its blend of human activity and natural beauty.
Wildlife Viewing from Shore
While boat tours offer the best chances for extensive wildlife viewing, you don’t always need to be on the water to spot some of Alaska’s iconic creatures. From various points along Whittier’s shore, particularly near the marina and along the walking paths, visitors can often spot harbor seals bobbing in the water, sea otters playing near the docks, and a variety of seabirds. Bald eagles are a common sight, often perched on lampposts or soaring majestically overhead. During salmon runs, bears can occasionally be seen along the riverbanks just outside of town, though always observe from a safe and respectful distance. Even from the windows of the Begich Towers, residents and guests often report sightings of marine life in the canal. Keep your binoculars handy and your eyes peeled – nature is always close at hand in Whittier.
Experiencing Local Life and Comforts
Despite its remote location and small size, Whittier offers essential comforts and unique local experiences that add to the charm of a visit. Engaging with the town’s limited but vibrant offerings allows travelers to connect with the local culture and appreciate the ingenuity born from isolation.
Dining in Whittier
Dining options in Whittier are few, but they offer a quintessential Alaskan experience, often focusing on the freshest local seafood. Visitors can enjoy hearty meals at establishments such as the Swiftwater Seafood Cafe or the Wild Catch Cafe, where the day’s catch, from salmon to halibut, is expertly prepared. These casual eateries provide a cozy atmosphere, perfect for recounting the day’s adventures while savoring the flavors of Alaska. Pizza places and small delis also cater to various tastes, ensuring that visitors have satisfying options after a day of exploration. It’s an opportunity to taste the bounty of Prince William Sound directly from its source, often served with a side of local hospitality. Given the town’s isolation, these establishments are not just places to eat, but often serve as social hubs for both residents and visitors.
Gift Shops and Local Art
For those looking to take a piece of Whittier home, the town offers a few charming gift shops. These establishments typically feature Alaskan-themed souvenirs, including locally crafted artworks, jewelry, apparel, and unique memorabilia that reflect the area’s natural beauty and distinctive character. You might find items carved from local wood, handmade crafts, or prints depicting the stunning glaciers and wildlife of Prince William Sound. Supporting these local businesses is a wonderful way to commemorate your trip and contribute directly to the small community’s economy. These shops often double as small museums, showcasing the local culture and artistic interpretations of the Alaskan wilderness. They provide an opportunity to find truly unique keepsakes, far removed from mass-produced tourist items.
Photography Opportunities
Whittier is a photographer’s dream, offering an endless array of stunning vistas. The dramatic interplay of towering, snow-capped mountains, turquoise glacial waters, and rugged coastlines provides countless opportunities for landscape photography. Wildlife photography is equally rewarding, with chances to capture majestic eagles, playful sea otters, and breaching whales. The unique architecture of the Begich Towers and the historic ruins of the Buckner Building offer compelling subjects for architectural and historical photography. The ever-changing light, from golden sunrises over the sound to dramatic sunsets painting the mountain peaks, ensures that every moment can be a photographic masterpiece. From wide-angle panoramas to close-up macro shots of wildflowers, Whittier’s diverse environment challenges and inspires photographers of all skill levels, ensuring a rich visual record of your Alaskan adventure.
Planning Your Visit to Whittier
A successful trip to Whittier, Alaska, requires a bit of planning, primarily due to its unique access and seasonal considerations. Understanding the logistics will ensure a smooth and enjoyable experience in this extraordinary destination.
Getting There: The Tunnel Experience
The journey to Whittier is an integral part of the adventure. The town is primarily accessed via the Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel, a single-lane tunnel shared by cars and trains. This means traffic flows one way for a set period, then reverses. It’s crucial to check the tunnel schedule in advance, as missing a window can lead to long waits. The tunnel’s entrance is about an hour’s drive from Anchorage, making Whittier an accessible day trip or an excellent starting point for a longer Alaskan adventure. Alternatively, many visitors arrive by cruise ship or ferry, which dock directly in Whittier’s port, connecting it to other coastal communities. This unique access adds to Whittier’s mystique and helps preserve its secluded charm, making the arrival itself an exciting part of the travel narrative.
Best Time to Visit
The peak season for visiting Whittier is typically from May to September, when the weather is mildest, and all tour operators and services are in full swing. During these months, the days are long, and the chances of spotting wildlife are highest. Summer also offers the best conditions for kayaking, hiking, and cruising. The shoulder seasons (late spring/early fall) can offer fewer crowds and potentially lower prices, though some services might have reduced hours. Winter visits are possible but present a much different experience, with heavy snows, shorter daylight hours, and limited activities, primarily appealing to those seeking extreme solitude or winter sports. For most travelers, the summer months provide the optimal balance of accessibility, activities, and comfortable weather to fully enjoy all that Whittier has to offer.
Essential Packing Tips
Given Alaska’s unpredictable weather, packing layers is essential for a trip to Whittier. Even in summer, temperatures can vary significantly, and rain is always a possibility. Be sure to include waterproof outer layers (jacket and pants), warm fleeces or sweaters, and sturdy, waterproof walking shoes or hiking boots. A hat, gloves, and sunglasses are also recommended. For bug protection, especially if you plan on hiking or spending time outdoors, strong insect repellent is a must. Don’t forget your camera, extra batteries, and binoculars for wildlife viewing. Reusable water bottles are also a good idea. Given the limited retail options in Whittier, it’s wise to pack any personal medications or specialized gear you might need. Being well-prepared ensures comfort and allows you to fully engage with all the adventures Whittier offers, regardless of the weather.
Accommodation Options
While Whittier is small, it does offer a few distinct accommodation options, primarily within or adjacent to the Begich Towers. These can range from hotels and guesthouses located within the unique building itself to smaller inns or rental apartments nearby. Given the limited number of establishments, it’s highly recommended to book your accommodation well in advance, especially if you’re traveling during the peak summer season. Staying in Whittier, even for a night, provides a unique opportunity to experience the town’s communal atmosphere after the day-trippers have departed. Some accommodations also offer stunning views of Passage Canal or the surrounding mountains, providing a peaceful retreat after a day of exploring Prince William Sound.
Whittier, Alaska, is a truly unique travel destination, offering an unforgettable blend of natural grandeur, intriguing history, and an unconventional community spirit. From traversing the iconic Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel and exploring the “town under one roof” at Begich Towers, to embarking on exhilarating glacier cruises and paddling through serene fjords, the opportunities for adventure and discovery are endless. Whether you seek thrilling outdoor activities, a delve into military history, or simply a chance to witness a community thriving in an extraordinary setting, Whittier promises a travel experience unlike any other. Pack your sense of adventure and prepare to be captivated by this remarkable Alaskan gem.
LifeOutOfTheBox is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com. Amazon, the Amazon logo, AmazonSupply, and the AmazonSupply logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates. As an Amazon Associate we earn affiliate commissions from qualifying purchases.